1. Hot water in washing machine, dissolve 4 boxes salt in it, then 1 tsp water softener
2. dissolve 1 Tbs urea in 2-3 cups warm water (105 degrees) in a glass jar
3. dissolve dye into urea water
4. pour dye through filter into tub - repaste whatever gets caught in the filter and add to dye bath
5. Add gi, set washer to agitate, set timer so I remember to reset washer so it doesn't drain the dye.
6. Before 20 minutes are up, start mixing soda ash in hot water - total of 1 oz/gallon of water in tub
7. stir fixer in water AWAY FROM GI, slowly, over about 15 minutes
8. agitate for 60 minutes - don't forget the timer
9.drain and rinse. Use 3 oz fixative in a hot soak.
10. rinse with cold water a couple of times, wash, dry, enjoy
Notes on these steps (because I wrote these before I actually did it)
3. This step is called pasting.
4. I poured the dye through a paper towel-lined sieve. I didn't see anything that got caught, so I didn't do any re-pasting.
6. I don't think the water needs to be hot, because the soda ash mixing with the water heats it all up. Really hot. Also, I gave up on trying to measure it and used a very scientific amount - SOME.
7. this means pull/push the gi away from a spot so that you don't actually pour the fixer directly on the gi. Mix it with the water/dye, then mix it into the gi.
9. This fixative isn't really necessary, but I figured for a few bucks, I'd go the extra mile.
10. I used the industrial strength fabric softener, and it's pretty awesome.
Here are the supplies you need:
First, a gi. The dye will only work on natural fibers, so make sure it's 100% cotton. The thread will probably not be cotton, so you'll end up with some contrast stitching.
Salt. Lots and lots of salt. And stuff to stir with that isn't metal. I found disposable plastic spoons to be lovely for mixing stuff up, and the long handled spatula (cheapest thing I could find) worked great for maneuvering the gi in the dye bath.
Industrial strength detergent and fabric softener. Not strictly required, but again, I figured it wouldn't be worth saving a few extra bucks to ruin the dye job.
Fiber Reactive Dye, Urea, Soda Ash Fixer, Dye Fixative and, if you have extra hard water like I do, water softener.![]() |
| Looking good! |
And a paper towel and something to strain with. It would have been nicer to have something bigger, but I didn't want to risk ruining my good colanders.
Someone who isn't doing anything important who is willing to open that door for you, grab that spoon, scratch that itch or whatever you can't do with dye gloves on.
Really, not much better. I'll get a better picture, I promise. Anyway, you can see how the collar and pants turned out lighter. I assume this is because they are actually a cotton blend - it's ripstop. I was worried about it while it was in the washer, but it turned out to be a neat effect - the tape on the side slits is the same fabric, so it doesn't just look like the pants faded. Also, these pants have a crotch insert of gi material, so they have some of the dark green, too. That doesn't look quite as neat, but it's there. The white stitching still shows through - it's polyester, I'm sure, and will not take this dye. John was thrilled that he still had contrast stitching. By the way, this is a Gorilla Gear Chimp gi. We love it - everything we could want in a kid's gi.







